| [00:02.54] |
Well, we've turned up |
| [00:04.12] |
and we've seen a couple of absolutely monster barrels. |
| [00:08.10] |
So we've got what we came for. |
| [00:11.13] |
And, um...I'm pretty nervous, |
| [00:12.85] |
because I'm about to swim that huge torpedo camera back out there... |
| [00:15.96] |
..and it's dangerous-looking! |
| [00:22.56] |
The big waves had brought surfers from all over the world, |
| [00:25.48] |
but this was definitely a day for the professionals. |
| [00:32.54] |
Bali was going to have to use all his surf experience |
| [00:35.15] |
to get the shots without risking his safety. |
| [00:39.36] |
Positioning was going to be everything. |
| [00:41.76] |
This really is a dangerous sport. |
| [00:43.87] |
Superficially, it looks a bit like skiing down the face of a mountain. |
| [00:47.73] |
The difference here is that the mountain is actually chasing YOU |
| [00:51.07] |
and wanting to gobble you up as you go along. |
| [00:58.63] |
This is what we came for. |
| [01:01.31] |
Bali got into position for his first shot of the day - |
| [01:05.63] |
a ten-foot barrel wave. 10 |
| [01:09.50] |
Capturing a shot like this leaves little margin for error,as Bali discovered. |
| [01:14.95] |
I tried to hold on as long as I could |
| [01:16.98] |
and it sucked me over the falls afterwards. |
| [01:18.92] |
This thing is so heavy, I was in the foam, inside, trying to get up. |
| [01:23.78] |
My right leg cramped and I couldn't get up for ages. |
| [01:29.60] |
I was just lucky there wasn't really much behind it, |
| [01:31.95] |
or I'd still be in there trying to get out. |